The "Wild Coast" in the Eastern Cape of South Africa is named as such because of its rugged, untamed natural beauty, characterized by dramatic cliffs, secluded bays, wild beaches, and unpredictable weather. There are no 'safe havens' for a full 270nm between Durban and East London. The Agulhas current can run at up to 5 knots and, if the wind blows strongly from the south west, the 'wind against current' scenario can generate boat-breaking 18m high waves.
Our next passage required a 'weather window' which would be open long enough for Skyfall to safely reach East London before the wind could change.
Fortunately for us, just such an opportunity appeared only two days after we arrived in Durban (January 16th) and we took it. Eight 'international' boats left with us. We were the sixth boat out, clearing the breakwater just after 18.00. The wind was no longer blowing from the south but the northerly wind had not yet filled in. Ideally, we could have waited a further eight hours for wind, but that would have meant leaving the port in darkness and would have given us less margin to reach East London before the weather changed. On this occasion, I had no qualms about burning diesel until the wind arrived.
We had around 48 hours before the 'window' would close. I wanted at least 12 hours margin. So we had to do 270nm in 36 hours, or 180nm per day. That may sound a lot, but the Agulhas current actually made it straightforward.
We motored until 0200, when there was enough wind to do 5 knots under sail. Normally, at midnight, the skipper hands over to the crew for his watch. However, this time I wanted to stay on watch until the wind was 'stable'. On this coast, the wind can build very, very quickly. Sure enough, within three hours we had over 25 knots of wind, so the mainsail was packed away and we sailed under genoa alone. Exhausted, the skipper handed over to Paul and went below to sleep.
East London is an easy port to enter, even at night or in bad weather. Most visiting yachts stay on moorings (trots) or lie at anchor, but there are two berths on 'walk-on' pontoons. They are allocated on a 'first come, first serve' basis. When I came on deck the next morning, we were in the Agulhas current, it was blowing 30+ knots and we were making 10-12 knots over the ground. The wind had not been blowing long enough to build up big waves, yet the intensity of the wind had turned the wave crests into a foam of white. We had passed all bar one of the boats who had left Durban with us. In principle, our berth was secured! Therefore, we were under no pressure to sail faster or slower.
However, around lunchtime we got a message that a catamaran had engine trouble and one of the berths was now reserved for that boat. Unless we arrived first, we would be on a mooring. Suddenly, there was motivation to move quickly and overtake the lead boat.
On this stretch of coast, the most efficient way of going faster is to ensure you are right in the centre of the Agulhas current. By trial and error we found this to be between the 300m and 500m contour (depth of the water around the coast), not the 200m contour as 'advertised' on the charts.
I am not sure if the crew of the other boat were trying as hard, but, thanks to having more current, our 'speed over ground' was 1.5-2 knots faster and by evening we were far enough ahead that our berth looked secure. Skyfall even beat the 'magic' benchmark of 200nm in a day. And with over an hour to spare. In fact, we were all tied up on the pontoon by 02.00 on the 18th, at least 16 hours before the window would close.
East London turned out to be a really good stop. With so many international cruisers arriving together, there was a lively social interaction. We also benefited from tips of 'Things to do' from our friend, Hugh (SV Seachange), who was born and raised in East London.
We started our first day with breakfast in Beach Break cafe, next to Nahoon Beach. The tables are outside under scented trees and the general feel is very relaxing.After breakfast we took a leisurely stroll along the beach to Reef point. This is a surfing hotspot with International surf competitions held here annually.
Buffalo River Yacht Club was very welcoming and organised a 'Braai' for the visiting yachts. They have an innovative barbecue station, the likes of which I have never seen before. At the back is an area to burn the wood/charcoal until it glows and is ready to be used for cooking. This area has an efficient chimney. Once ready, the glowing fuel is raked forward under the barbecuing grills; it is the first 'smoke free' barbecue that I have attended.
Jody Scheckter was a F1 driver from the 1970's who hailed from East London. He was the first African F1 champion. In those days East London hosted an annual F1 race and the circuit still exists today. Of course, half the grandstand has fallen down and been removed, the pit lane looks very 'tired' and it is only used to host one event each month for local drivers.
You can also drive round the circuit yourself but care is needed as aspiring racers do not seem to be able to agree which way round to go! Also do not try with a nervous passenger in the car. Flooring our Suzuki Swift and watching as the needle climbed almost to100 km/hour, my concentration was interrupted by Paul screaming to let him out!
We met a local driver who offered to show us his cars. He had a Corvette muscle car and a Mazda GT. Even at the local level, the cost of competing is staggering. For instance, each race he has to fork out $3,000 for new tyres and source jet fuel to run the car on.
After the excitement of a race circuit, we took a more leisurely road trip to Hogsback for a couple of days. Although the film of 'Lord of the Rings' may have been shot in New Zealand, JR Tolkien spent a lot of time in Hogsback and his descriptions of Middle Earth are said to have been inspired by the scenery here. We did a couple of trails.
We left East London late afternoon on January 21st. it was unclear if we would stop in Port Elizabeth, or sail onwards to Knysna. Port Elizabeth is not a great destination. If the wind is from the north east the boat is quickly covered in coal, magnesium and iron ore dust from the nearby industrial port. Yet Knysna can only be entered in calm weather and at high tide thanks to two dangerous sand bars across most of a relatively narrow entrance. Sailing to Knysna from Port Elizabeth is a shorter distance so it is easier to get the timing and weather right.
For this passage we needed to head far enough offshore to benefit from the Agulhas Current again. To my surprise, as we crossed first the 200m contour (depth of seabed around the coast), then the 300m contour and finally the 500m contour we had virtually no current in our favour. I often frustrate my family by not being able to find my keys, or misplacing my glasses. But not being able to find the Agulhas current where it is supposed to run at 5 knots takes some beating!
I did not really want to go further offshore and we settled down sailing under genoa at around 6 knots. It was only when I came on watch at 0400 the following morning, a full 12 hours after we had departed, that I noticed that the Agulhas current had found us (or maybe having Paul at the helm for four hours did the trick). Again, the current was much further offshore than predicted by current models or by charts and only as we approached Port Elizabeth did it move closer inshore.
Port Elizabeth is on the south east corner of the continent and is a 'turning mark' for ships sailing round Africa. We were surprised at the number of big ships we encountered. There were usually at least four on the chart plotter in our vicinity at any one time. The issues using the Suez canal do not just affect pleasure craft.
The conditions were favourable to continue to Knysna. We had six hours margin to arrive before high tide and the strong easterly wind was due to subside with a light south westerly starting just before high tide. The Agulhas current stops following the coast and turns due south about 30nm past Port Elizabeth and well before Knysna. So waiting for high tide as a south westerly was starting to blow was not as scary as it might have been further east.
We were advised to enter the Heads between 0800 and 10.00 (the two hours before high water) and stopped 10nm offshore around 0300. The wind had died completely and we simply slept as we waited. The entrance to the Heads is quite narrow, rocky and can have breakers due to the inner and outer bar. But not for our entrance. The seas were almost perfectly flat and we came in without issues.
Inside the Heads, a peaceful lagoon opens up. This anchorage is regarded as the jewel of the South African coastline. We had survived sailing the 'Wild Coast' and were ready to enjoy some 'chill time' exploring the surrounding area
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