South Africa: Sailing the Western Cape
- Tom
- Mar 21
- 8 min read
Updated: Mar 26
We were due back in Knysna (after our safari) late on February 4th, with a planned departure two days later. Waiting in the airport for our flight, I got a message from Gary (SV Manxman) that there was now a big swell expected from the 5th and, if we did not get out through Knysna Heads that day, the entrance to the lagoon would not be passable for four days. He, and SV French Curve,were about to depart.
Skyfall had already been in Knysna for 12 days. Paul had a flight out of Cape Town on the 10th. If we got stuck, then I would be sailing single-handed to Cape Town. So the afternoon turned into a frantic rush to catch the high tide at 19.00 that evening. We were back on the boat by 15.15. Paul had a conference call which he could not miss from 15.30 to 17.30 so I would have to prepare everything. Engine checks, provisioning, stowing everything away, paying bills, etc. But, it all worked out and we had cast off by 18.15 and reached the (relatively calm) entrance right on high tide.
However, the wind was far from perfect. In fact, there was no wind. We had to motor through the night and we were only able to sail at first light. The other boats who had left twelve hours earlier had motored to a dubious anchorage just past Mossel Bay and were waiting there until later in the day before setting off. Because the wind, when it did start blowing at 05.00, was from the wrong direction. We would have to sail upwind.
I did not mind this because the wind was relatively light (12-17 knots), and the waves, although 3.5m high, had a long period (13s) and so were not steep. And Skyfall sails relatively well upwind. Finally, the forecast showed a noticeable 'wind bend' and, if we sailed out to sea on starboard tack first, then we could expect a very favourable shift in wind direction after a couple of hours. This turned out to be accurate and the extra distance associated with having to 'zig zag' upwind was considerably reduced.
By 11.00 we were pointing in the right direction, by 22.00 we could start easing the sheets as the wind came round behind us, and by 01.00 we had reached Cape Agulhas, the most southerly point of Africa.
I had really wanted to mark the rounding with a photo but, as it was dark, I had to settle for the chart plotter screen as a 'memento'.
From Cape Agulhas we had a very pleasant and relatively gentle sail through the rest of the night and early morning. Then, around 10.30, the wind started to increase. In South Africa, when you reduce sail, there is no point just putting one reef in because the wind increases so fast that you would almost immediately be reefing again.. So we put in both the second and third reef together. That worked until lunchtime. From then on, with gusts of 35 knots, we would be sailing under genoa only.
We had the benefit of the Bengali current which flows north along the western Cape. The Skipper had also been told all about the katabatic winds or 'whilliwaws' that whistle down from Cape Point, past Hout Bay and all the way to Cape Town. As the afternoon progressed, we ended up using just a reefed genoa, in winds of 25 knots but with regular gusts up to 40 knots!
All was well until we rounded the 'Cape of Good Hope' (previously known as the Cape of Storms). Now only 8nm from our goal, we hardened up onto a reach (wind across the boat) and were soon in the lee of the mountains. Accordingly, the wind dropped to 10-15 knots. Paul, ever the sailor, requested motor assistance. It was already 16.00 and he was looking forward to dinner in a Cape Town restaurant. But it was 8nm and we had enough wind to sail. Maybe not very fast with a reefed genoa, so I unfurled it to give a bit more speed. What a mistake! About one minute later, out of nowhere, we were hit by a williwaw of over 35 knots! I could only bear away straight downwind and wait for it to pass. Five minutes later, we could furl the genoa, turn on the engine and motor the last bit. Be warned, in the late afternoon, the gusts here are brutal.
It was great to be in the marina. We could now explore the Western Cape, knowing that the South Africa sailing was behind us. Without good forecasts and sensible passage planning, this would be a treacherous coast, yet we had negotiated it without breaking anything and hardly stressing the boat.
After a day of 'jobs' (hosing down boat, doing laundry, etc), we had just over two days before Paul flew home. Therefore, I gave him the choice of what we should do with the time. There is a 'hop on, hop off' bus tour around the city and part of the peninsula and we decided it would be a good way to 'see the sights'.
Wherever you go in Capetown, the vistas are dominated by Table Mountain in the background. Indeed, one of the 'hop off' stops was by the cable car to the top. The top is actually a 40 minute hike across the plateau from where you get off the cable car, but it is over interesting ground with stunning views. The sun was strong and we were pleased we were doing it in the early morning to avoid the worst of the heat and the other tourists (Table Mountain has circa 1M visitors each year)
Our tour also took us to Camp bay and Clifton, where all the nice beaches and expensive real estate are. Having lunch overlooking one beach, we lost count of the Lambourginis, Ferraris and Porches that passed by. There is no shortage of money in this part of South Africa.
On the way back, we walked between stops along the seafront and watched the skiffs racing.
They were based in Royal Cape Yacht club, which was on the other side of the harbour and a good 40 minute walk from our marina. In the evening, we headed over there to meet up with Norbert and Inge (SY Marisol) for a drink. The yacht club has a long history and was patronised by Sir Thomas Lipton (of Lipton Tea fame), among others. Their trophy cabinets were very impressive.
The following day, we did a wine tasting tour in the Stellenbosch region. It was a glorious Sunday, the scenery and blue skies making it the perfect day to relax and to eat and drink to excess. You can do tastings on estates around the town or in the town itself. (Many of the restaurants are owned by the vineyards and are used to promote their wines).
After Paul flew out the following day, I turned my attention to the various boat jobs, starting with a thorough boat cleaning session. With the heat, it was best to start very early, work until midday, take the afternoon off until 16.00 and then start again.
I had various other things on my 'bucket list' for Cape Town, including hiking up Table Mountain. Fortunately, Hugh (SY Seachange) had organised just such a hike. He took us up 'India venster', a relatively challenging but highly rewarding route (see also top photo). In his youth, he climbed most of the routes on Table Mountain, even free climbing some of them. There was no danger of us getting lost!
The route was only 750m of ascent but there were several sections where hand holds, good boots and efficient scrambling was required.
Close to Table Mountain is Lions Head which is used extensively by paragliders. On the drive back into town, we could watch them, using the thermals to gain height before landing in Camp Bay.
Even in the marina there was interesting sea-life to enjoy. With shades of the Galapagos, the fur seals were everywhere. I also spotted a (fairly rare) sunfish next to Skyfall
During our 'hop on, hop off' bus trip I had made a note of the interesting sights to explore later including the Zeit Museum of Contemporary Art. The building is extraordinary. Originally a grain silo and a key link in the chain when South Africa was exporting a lot of grain, it fell into disuse in the 90's. In order to repurpose the building, the interior of the building was carved out to create a number of galleries and a large central atrium. The remaining concrete shafts were capped with strengthened glass in order to allow natural light to enter and create a "cathedral-like" interior. Evidence of its 'industrial' origins remain throughout yet it is a light and inspiring space.
I am less sure about the contemporary art on display (or even what should qualify as art). But if the Tate Modern can display a pile of bricks then why should a pile of ceramic Maize also not qualify?
In Cape Town you can also visit a diamond museum or a museum dedicated to Robben Island and it's prisoners. I would have liked to visit Robben Island but the trips were sold out four days in advance and I did not book in time.
Walking around, I also came across several men dressed in a similar style. This was not on a Sunday, so had nothing to do with church. I have no idea if the fashion reflects a particular group but I felt compelled to compliment them for their 'sharp' dress sense (certainly compared to cruisers!)
With my departure from South Africa approaching fast, this is my last post about the country. I have really enjoyed the great weather, the welcome and support in all yacht clubs, and our interaction with the locals. Generally, I found people full of optimism and pride in their country, particularly among the younger generation. This woman summed it up with her radiant smile, colourful attire and new life which she is bringing into the world.
Of course, the country has significant economic and security issues, particularly in the Eastern Cape and in Johannesburg with corruption and poor governance holding the country back. If only the optimism could prevail!
Comments